Frequently Asked Questions:
Do you build other wheel sizes, or just 29"?
I build 26", 650b, mid fat, full fat, B+, 29+, road, cross, gravel, you name it.
So, uhh, how does this work?
My job is to take all of your needs and wants (in some cases carefully distinguishing between the two) and match them to the right rims, hubs, spokes, and lacing pattern to get you the most durable and lively wheelset possible.
So -- first thing -- you need to spend a few minutes filling out my info form as completely as you can. If there's a detail that I didn't ask about that you think is important, please share in the text box at the bottom of the form.
I'll look it over as soon as I receive it. I may ask some clarifying questions, or I may respond with a suggested build quote and price right away. Please look that over and give it some thought, then don't hesitate with questions.
Once you decide to move forward, full payment is required before I can start on your wheels. I accept payment via Venmo, Zelle, PayPal, or good old fashioned personal check.
Once we've agreed on the right components I can concentrate on proper lubrication, appropriate lacing, precision truing, just-the-right-amount of stress relief, and balancing out the tension. I typically ship via UPS Ground, and you'll get emailed tracking info.
A few days later your wheels will arrive at your door, professionally packed and insured for their full value against damage in transit.
Can I call you to discuss my wheelset?
I’m aware that many people would prefer to call to get answers and place an order over the phone.
I prefer to keep all correspondence via email. Why email, you ask?
There are a few reasons why I do it differently. First, every time the phone rings I have to stop the build I’m working on. I prefer to build each wheel start to finish without interruption because I can get into a rhythm and work more efficiently that way. And as groovy as it sounds, I can get a better feel for how the wheel is coming up to tension and if any potential problems are lurking beneath the surface. From your perspective, this can only be a good thing.
But more importantly is that I get so many queries about weights, widths, prices, colors, availability, tubeless, etc… that after a very short time (about 9:45 every Monday AM) all of the pending builds run together in my brain. If I tell you something (price quote, wheel weight, rim availability, etc…) on the phone, I may or may not remember it when it comes time to build your wheels. Conversely, if we use email to correspond, I’ll refer back to everything we've both written in that email string when I sit down to build your wheels. That means far, far less chance of you accidentally ending up with purple anodized nipples on your dream machine. Not that there’s anything wrong with purple nips!
Can I send in my own hubs or rims to be built?
I’m happy to lace your existing hubs into a new wheelset. Hubs do NOT need to be brand-spankin’ new to be reused in a wheelset, but it certainly helps if they’ve been cleaned and regreased before you ship them to me. A hub with seized bearings may not always be salvageable, and it’s better to find that out before I spend a few hours building them into a wheelset. If you’d like to send in rims to be laced, I’m happy to use them provided they are NEW. To be clear, I won’t relace used rims, and I do NOT reuse spokes.
Do you rebuild/repack/service hubs?
Sorry, no. My wheelbuild queue is always longer than I’d like, and I need to focus my limited time on what I do best. Most hubs can be easily repacked with basic tools, and the task of learning how to do this is not only rewarding but kinda fun for those that like to tinker. If you feel that you don’t have the aptitude, time, or tools to do it on your own, your local bike shop would love to help.
Do you need my rotors, cassette, and skewers to build around my hubs?
No! In fact, please do not send any of the above with your hubs! Please send the hubs and only the hubs to be built. I have thru-axle adapters, skewers, and thru-bolts for just about every hub out there.
I’ve heard that alloy nipples suck, and that you have to use straight gauge spokes to build a stiff wheel.
There are lots of myths being perpetuated in the wheelbuilding world. Some of them hold water, most of them do not. The simple fact is that materials and manufacturing processes change and improve over time. Brass nips and straight gauge spokes are appropriate in some cases, but they are not a blanket solution. What will work best for you is easy to determine: Fill out my info form as completely as you can and I’ll take it from there.
What if I already know exactly what I want?
I’m happy to build your wheels exactly as you specify. Please send an email with the finer details of what you’re looking for. I’ll respond ASAP with a price quote and estimated time to complete. If you have any uncertainty at all about your build, please fill out the entire info form above so that we can get it right. Thanks!
